Saint-Émilion: Why I would go back. A short guide

This is my short guide to Saint-Émilion, the UNESCO World Heritage site located just outside Bordeaux (and my own mothership of wine.)

I used to be a burgundy lover. Yes, I said it. No regrets here. For nearly 20 years or so my most memorable bottles of fine wine had originated mostly in the famous terroirs around Beaune. But increasingly I noticed Saint-Émilion was a name that started to pop up with alarmingly regularity on labels when I dared venture off my path of red-wine-righteousness. Colour me intrigued!

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So one late-summer afternoon, after we had spent a lazy long weekend pottering about in the Perigord, we found ourselves driving the hire car back to Bordeaux for the flight home Luckily we had a several hours to kill (missed flight/airport check-in stress is real, people!) and there, like some siren call from the ancient wine gods, was a massive road sign pointing the way to Saint-Émilion. Fifteen very “we’d better not miss this damn flight” bickering minutes later, we found ourselves in the middle of town, parked up next to rows of carefully manicured vines, and the snarky arguments had stopped. We were instantly hooked on the place.

Saint-Émilion is beautiful

A picturesque mediaeval village, curated in a way that only French municipal tourist offices and post-napoleonic bureaucracy can achieve. It’s plopped on top of a hill, with stunning views over the plains below from the main town square. And for a aspiring amateur oenophile like myself, I was overjoyed to find street after street of bistros and wine shops that were overflowing with not just the finest of wines (that terrified my already-bruised credit card) but boozy boy-gadgets that begged for rehoming.

So the following year we booked a long weekend in a local chateau-hotel for my birthday.

Getting around Saint-Émilion

Once you’re there, the town itself is compact enough to be easily walkable. However, that incredible view on top of the hill comes a price – it’s can be pretty steep in places, though if channeling a small mountain goat isn’t your thing, you can stick with wandering about the old centre-ville by the church, where much of the good stuff is located.

Unless you’re staying in town itself, you’ll probably need a car to get there.

Taxis are available, but unless you prebook with your hotel expect a bit of a wait (both in and out). We found they weren’t that plentiful out here – we couldn’t summon an Uber to get us back to the hotel from town after a long lunchtime wine tasting (but maybe we were just unlucky). In the end we hitched a ride with one of the friendly wine-tasting-tours that passed near the hotel, who just dropped us of on their way – I think mostly because they found my t-shirt covered in cats hilarious! (Or maybe because we tipped well. We may never know)

Getting to Saint-Émilion from Bordeaux

Either get a hire car and make the short drive east, or book yourself onto a guided tour. Unless you need the exercise, whatever you do, don’t do the train. Saint-Émilion train station is about a mile outside of town, and you’re going to feel every inch of that 30-minute walk back after a long wine-fuelled lunch.

Where to eat in Saint-Émilion

The village is filled with great places to eat. Having tried more of them than my doctor would have recommended a fat bloke of my age (and family history of cardiovascular disease) would have wanted, I can confirm I’ve yet to have a disappointing dish in any of them. Even the (challenging!) intestine sausage was tasty, at least for the first few mouthfuls. Expect menus with duck, steak, duck, beef, cheese, duck, charcuterie and duck. Did I mention the duck?

Most places also have salad on offer if you’re vegetarian, but make sure you check beforehand that your plate of greenery won’t come bedecked with yummy crunchy duck or pork sprinkles, added for extra tastiness.

What to drink in Saint-Émilion

You’re most likely here for the wine, and you may be familiar with the classification system for Saint-Émilion wines.

The latest edition (no 7, issued in 2022) lists the following:

71 Grands Crus Classés
12 Premiers Grands Crus Classés and
2 Premiers Grands Crus Classés “A”

Find out all about the classification and its history here on the official Conseil des Vins de Saint-Émilion website

Some of the wine can get pricey. Like REALLY expensive. (Yes Chateau Angelus…. you know you are!) So if you don’t want to splash out on a bottle of the finest local red with your meal, nearly every eating joint in town will have an excellent selection of wine by the glass or carafe.

Alternatively, book a wine tasting. My personal favourite is Chateau Gaudet – the only one located in town, therefore the only one within easy walking distance of town-centre hotels. They run wine tastings with short tours of the cellar. Quick note: entrance to the cellar is a via a small vertical step ladder, though you can skip this bit of the experience and just do the tasting

You can book a grand cru wine tasting and tour directly with Chateau Gaudet here

Best Areas to Stay on your St-Émilion trip

St-Émilion hotels in the old town

The old town is St-Émilion at its most mediaeval and atmospheric. Wine shops, coffee spots, patissieries and restaurants are all within just a few minutes walk along (mostly smooth) cobbled streets. If this is your first visit, this is probably the best option, specially if you want to potter about explore on foot.

Logis de la Cadène

Logis de la Cadène sits right in the heart of town, on the town square. Decor is hotel chic, and the place comes stunning views. It is owned by the family behind the famous Château Angélus wine, and so it’s not surprising that it has a Michelin-starred restaurant on site (the only one in St-Emilion)

Au Logis des Remparts

Right in the heart of the old town, Au Logis des Remparts has both a garden and an outdoor pool, quite honestly a rare combination this close to the centre. The hotel doesn’t meet French government accessibility requirements, however, so bear that in mind before you book.

Among the vineyards, hotels just outside the village

For travellers to St-Émilion who want a hotel with a pool, spa, and vineyard views with their morning coffee, staying just outside town is worth the short drive/long walk.

Les Clefs de Troplong Mondot

Les Clefs de Troplong Mondot is the hotel set within the renowned St-Émilion winery Chateau Troplong Mondot (producers of one of the very few premier grand cru classe bordeaux wines). A 30 minute walk/5 minute drive from town, it offers romantic suites and private cottages surrounded by vines.

Libourne and the surrounding villages

A cheaper (ok, the term is relative…) more practical base if you’re touring the wider wine region and you have a car. A ten minute drive into St-Émilion and only a short drive to other famous appellations (did I here someone say Pomerol? Don’t mind if I do…).

Château Hôtel Grand Barrail

A 19th-century château just under two miles from the village, Château Hôtel Grand Barrail has an outdoor pool, spa, excellent restaurant, and it’s own winebar that used to sell Chateau Angelus wine by the glass! (IKR…. probably one of the few times you’ll get to experience one of the most expensive fine wines without having to bargain with your bank manager beforehand).

Top 3 things to do in on a trip to St-Émilion village

OK, now you’ve got your hotel, and you’ve had a glass or two of wine, what to do next?

Visit the 12 century Monolithic Church

If you’re feeling energetic, why not take a tour around the underground passages of the monolithic church of Saint-Émilion (the largest such monolithic church in Europe). Spend 45 minutes meandering beneath the village and take in the Trinity Chapel, the Emilion Hermitage, the catacombs and the bell tower (which rises over 50 metres and can be spotted from well outside the village). A quick note: photography is NOT allowed underground.

However you CAN take pics of the quite staggering painting The Apocalypse of Saint-Émilion, according to St John by local artist François Peltier. It’s a staggering depiction

You can book a tour of the church in advance here

Taste wine at the only château in the centre of St-Émilion

Chateau Gaudet is located in St-Emilion town, and is the only one within easy walking distance of town-centre hotels. The estate is managed by Guy-Petrus Lignac, great nephew of Marie Louise Loubat who created Château Pétrus, and produces grand cru classe wines. They run wine tastings with short tours of the cellar. Quick note: entrance to the cellar is a via a small vertical step ladder, though you can skip this bit of the experience and just do the tasting