Each Balearic island has its own particular, and unique, character. When taken individually, they are also many-layered. The Ibiza of hardcore clubbers is culturally miles away from that of the upmarket villa-goer, for instance. Whilst Menorca can be a mecca for both history buffs who love nothing more than hiking from one archeological site to another, and families with kids who are looking for a quiet week away in the summer sunshine.
And the same can be said of Mallorca. (or is it Majorca?)
Pilloried for years as the go-to package holiday destination of groups of hormone-ridden 18-25 year olds in search of cheap booze, sun, and regrettable one-night-stands, the island also has a much more laid back, chilled aspect to it. It also seems to be the spiritual home of groups of sweaty northern Europeans in matching anatomically-terrifying lycra, all on expensive carbon fibre bikes. Each to their own I suppose.
Suffice it to say, the Mallorca that I’ve been most happy to holiday in for the last 20 years meant the sunburnt concrete Magaluf (and Calla Mallorca) has been largely unvisited. And I’m not sure the world is quite ready for me in figure-hugging lycra.
I’ve just got back from yet another break in Mallorca. Previously, I’ve stayed in either a boutique hotel in Palma, or in a villa in the countryside near Alcudia. This time, I managed to snag an absolute bargain stone-walled villa with pool, at the absolute arse-end of tiny narrow goat trail in the farmlands just outside Pollença. It was glorious.
So if you’re like me, and an independent solo traveller who likes nice things without needing everyone to see you having them (“like, writing about then on a blog, Tiffany?”), read on.
Table of Contents
Getting to Pollença (and the most important decision: the hire car)
Flights
I flew into Palma (PMI) with British Airways from London City Airport. Word of warning about holiday routes from here on BA…. The airline has a notoriously annoying habit of cancelling flights from here. It’s happened to me 3 times out of the last 4 that I’ve attempted it. I’m going to stick to Gatwick or Heathrow from now on. Book LCY on BA at your own risk.
Pollença is on the opposite side of the island from the airport, and the drive is roughly 45 minutes plus 30 mins or so to collect your hire car. And you’re going to need to get a car if you want to stay in the north.
Hire car
I went with Sixt on this trip, and they were their usual German efficient selves. Be careful which company you book your car with – some companies operate off-terminal, and this can be a logistical pain TBH.
And here is the single most useful bit of advice in this entire post:
Do not get anything large.
Streets in towns on the island are narrow, and the parking is tight (and often rarer than rooster teeth). Once your’e off the main roads, the windy narrow farm tracks in the outback t are more suited for a nimble skinny mountain goat than a German SUV. So book the smallest category you can sensibly fit you and your luggage into. A car you can gracefully reverse into a gap with a reasonable degree of dignity is worth more than any amount of legroom.
Solo traveller tip: book the full excess waiver before you go. Narrow stone walls are very unforgiving on shiny new paintwork, and you’ve no one to share the bill with. And EVs are plentiful, but a pain in the ass to charge if you’re trying to catch your plane and wanting to avoid the refuelling fees at the car hire place.
Where to stay in Pollença?
I booked a villa with a pool via Airbnb. It was about a 10 min drive west of Pollenca, in the middle of farmland. It was quiet (ok, the bells on the local sheep were non-stop, but this was rather charming, a constant a reminde of where I was) and had an amazing view over the valley. Because it was shoulder season, I paid roughly half price of what it would have cost a month before. That’s the single biggest economic argument for going outside July and August.
Is a villa sensible for one person? Honestly it can be isolating, specially this far away from town. But it was incredibly peaceful, and I could spread my crap out all over the place and not have to worry about running out of space. And having a pool to yourself means that pants-free swimming (“please tell me you didn’t? the horror. THE HORROR”) is a definite possibility, just don’t scare the poor innocent sheep.
However, if you want people around you, a hotel in town or at the port might be a better option (and also slightly cheaper. It might have been half price, but it definitely wasn’t cheap. Villas in this area never are any more).
Other options at different budgets
- Mid-range: Mon Boutique Hotel in Pollença is 4-star, and comes with small rooftop pool, air-conditioning, private bathrooms, and free WiFi.
- Treat yourself: Forum hotel and spa is a kid-free boutique hotel in nearby Alcudia
Pollença town: Plaça Major, the Sunday market and the 365 steps
This is the heart of it, and where I want to correct something before you book: the Plaça Major is in Pollença old town, up the hill. It is not at the marina. The marina is Port de Pollença, a few kilometres away on the bay. People mix them up all the time.
Plaça Major is lined with café and restaurant terraces and is the best spot in town for coffee and people-watching. It also has most of the major supermarket chains. Free on street parking was always plentiful, but this was shoulder season – expect this to change in the middle of summer.
The Sunday market takes over the old town, and with around 300 stalls it is one of the biggest in Mallorca. It runs roughly 08:00 to 13:30 around Plaça Major and the adjoining Plaça de Ca les Monnares.
Practical tip: on market day the streets near the centre get busy, so park on the edge of town and walk in. (“I can’t really see you walking anywhere… but let’s pretend”)
The Calvari steps: 365 of them, one for each day of the year, lined with cypress trees and leading up to a chapel with views over the town. Your knees will have opinions – as did I. Steps are NOT my thing, but you do you, weirdo.
Port de Pollença: the marina
Down on the coast is Port de Pollença, a sheltered bay with a flat seafront promenade, boats bobbing, watersports for hire (I hear some people like to do things like paddleboarding on holiday. I mean, really…. These people need to find Jesus in my opinion) and a tonne of lovely restaurants. It also has a Wednesday morning market if your timing is better than mine.
The flat promenade makes it one of the easiest places on the island for a stroll if, like a normal person on holiday, steps and hills are not on your agenda.
Its a warren of narrow one way streets though so be warned. You can spend ages looping round on yourself trying to get to the seafront, with its main parking area
What to eat
- Seafood: excellent, especially around the port. Try Stay Restaurant which is on overlooking the harbour.
- Ensaïmada: Mallorca’s famous coiled pastry, made with pork lard (saïm), which is where the name comes from. I had it slightly warm, and may or may not have ordered a second one straight away because it was SO delicious.
- Sobrassada: the island’s soft paprika-spiced cured sausage. Delicious, but best not tell your cardiologist that you had it.
Eating & drinking alone: This is Spain, Nobody cares if you’re on a table for 1 or in a group of 10. Yes, some of the dishes (paella for instance) are sold in double portions only, but this is a serving suggestion, and you have plenty of time to get through a massive plate of food on your own.
Day trip: Cap de Formentor
The drive from Port de Pollença out to the lighthouse at Cap de Formentor is about 20 km of winding road with cliff-edge views, and it’s one of the most famous drives on the island. Visit and fill up your instagram here.
Two warnings:
- It’s narrow and twisty. Another reason for the small car.
- Parking is limited, especially at the lighthouse, so go early or late and avoid the middle of the day in busy periods.
Solo traveller tips (50+)
- Go in shoulder season. Prices drop, crowds thin, and driving gets noticeably easier.
- Small car, always.
- Market day: arrive early, park on the edge of town.
- Wear proper shoes for the Calvari steps and the old-town cobbles.
- Book your first night’s restaurant if you’re arriving on a weekend, and let the rest happen naturally.
Check out my other related posts here