Boulogne-sur-Mer has a lot of history. The Romans once used it as the main base for trade and communication with Britain, and ever since then there have been strong ties (and territorial battles) between the UK and what is now the largest commercial fishing port in France. Here’s my short Boulogne guide for travellers wanting a short break away in this town on the English Channel.
Best for: A 2- or 3- night stop for people who like good seafood and pottering round a walled town, close to Calais and the cross-Channel ferries and Eurotunnel.
Getting there: Take a cross-Channel ferry or Eurotunnel to Calais, then drive/take a train to Boulogne. You can also take the SailLink sailing catamaran ferry direct from Dover if you’re up for a cool way to cross (about 4 hours or so total crossing time. Operates summer only)..
Where to stay: Hôtel Monsieur Georges (harbour views, recently renovated) is the my pick for most.
Don’t miss: The Wednesday and Saturday morning produce market in Place Dalton. Get there early, stuff sells out quickly, then do the hike up into the Old Town (Ville Haute)
Ideal length of stay: 2-3 nights.
Affiliate Disclosure
This post doesn’t actually contain affiliate links. If you book through them, I won’t earn a penny. They are my gift to you 😉
Table of Contents
How to get to Boulogne-sur-Mer
Boulogne-sur-Mer sits on the Côte d’Opale, about 20 miles southwest of Calais (or approximately 50 miles west of Lille). Since the demise of both Hoverspeed and their iconic retro hovercraft, and SpeedFerries, there have been no direct cross Chanel ferry services operating between UK and Boulogne-sur-Mer for about 20 years. (Until now… keep reading…)
Drive
If you’ve taken one of the cross channel ferries or Le Tunnel, you’ll likely find yourself in Calais. Slip your car onto the right hand side of le road, and then take the A16 for about 30 minutes. Et voila, bienvenue a Boulogne.
Cross channel ferries from Dover or Folkestone to Calais are probably the most convenient and affordable ways to do the crossing, and for officianados of formica, vinyl-covered walls, strip neon lighting and garish slot machines, this is your go-to.
Personally, I prefer underneath the Channel. So I drive my car to Folkestone, clear customs/border control without getting out, and then motor straight onto an early morning Le Tunnel train. I can then just sit quietly in my own driving seat for the next 40 minutes, eating cheeky breakfast Greggs in private.
- Spend 2 hours queuing with HGV drivers and loud, seasick, school coach parties by booking a cross Channel ferry from Dover of Folkestone here
- Never leave the comfort of your own car, stay safe and insulated from other people’s children, by booking a middle class crossing from Folkestone to Calais on Le Shuttle here
If you’re driving from somewhere else in France or Belgium, Via Michelin has a great route planner, with all sorts of details abut mileage, EV charging points, where to stay en-route.
By foot or train
If you’re crossing by ferry as a foot passenger/cyclist, then at least you’re making sensible financial and environmental choices. Good for you. Fair to say this is not on my bucket list, but you do you.
On arrival, you’ll need to spend the next 30 minutes hanging about on your modern luxury liner, siping frozen margaritas poolside (if they’re have a pool, that is. Or frozen margarita machine. And if you’re on a luxury liner, you got on the wrong boat, hun). Once they have offloaded all the cars, coaches and annoying children, you’ll then be transported by bus to the Foot Passenger Terminal for border/customs clearance. Hop on the free yellow Balad’in shuttle bus which runs from 09.00 to 19.00 or so most days, and get off at the train station. More info about Balad’in here (in French).
Direct from Dover Marina by sailing catamaran
For the more adventurous traveller, who wants the journey to be part of the holiday, book at ticket on SailLink. This is a relatively new service, and takes up to 12 foot passengers with/without bikes from Dover Marina to the centre of Boulogne.
Guide to the top 3 Places to Stay in Boulogne for a chilled short break
Hôtel Monsieur Georges. My pick. Recently and thoroughly renovated, it’s right on the Quai Gambetta and a 5 minute stroll will take you to Nausicaa, Europe’s largest aquarium, right on the main beach.
Most rooms have harbour views and balconies (you probably won’t need one TBH). The restaurant works with the local fish market, and serves up a delicious fixed-price menu at an incredibly reasonable price. Bar and reception are open 24/7. No pets allowed. Some accessible rooms (there’s a lift to get you between floors)
- Reserve a room directly on the Hôtel Monsieur Georges website here
- Find Hotel Monsieur Georges on Google Maps here
Hôtel La Matelote. A Michelin-starred restaurant attached to a 4-star hotel, there’s even a small spa (pool, sauna, hammam) for some pampering. It’s not cheap (specially for the solo traveller), but luxury comes with an appropriate tag. This would probably be your choice for a special treat.
- Reserve a room directly on the Hôtel La Matelote website here
- Find Hôtel Le Matelot on Google Maps here
Le Relais de Saint-Jacques. Stylish B&B near the Basilica. One of the very few places located in the walled old town, this is a chic French guesthouse. Offers only B&B, but as there’s literally an entire street of restaurants 2 minutes walk (Rue de Lille “Autour Rue des Cuisiniers“) so you’re not going to starve from lack of lunch or dinner. It comes with a lovely inner courtyard, great to chill in.
- Reserve a room directly on the Relais de Saint-Jacques website here
- Find Le Relais de Saint-Jacques on Google Maps here
5 things you need to eat when on a trip to Boulogne
A seafood platter. Boulogne is France’s largest fishing port, and it shows. Seafood of one sort or another is on nearly every restaurant and bistro menu, but if you want to have the full experience (and fancy trying a pickled whelk or two), try a seafood platter. My advice is to go for the one from the starters, not from entrees – they are a LOT of seafood - Moules. Classic, unfussy, and everywhere. Because you’re close to Belgium, expect them to come with fries. Most places will do at least 3 or 4 different sauces (including the usual marinières, creme or garlic, but I did see one offering curry sauce. Nope. I wasn’t brave enough)
- Bouillabaisse. A close relative of the Provencal fishy classic, and served with rouille, croutons and cheese on the side, there is one major, noticeable difference: the price. Expect to pay around half of what a bowl of bouillabaisse would cost you in Marseille.
Un Welsh. This local version of Welsh Rarebit (also with possible roots in the WW1 Flanders dish of “cheggion”) is popular all around the Pas de Calais region. Though probably not with the local cardiac surgeons, as it is essentially a bowl of melted cheese with a token slice of bread hidden somewhere at the bottom, probably for decoration. - Patisserie. Boulogne is blessed with many specialty boulangerie. They may not be as chic as those in Paris, but they still have a selection of delicious French pastry classics. It would be remiss not to pop in at least once or twice to quality check their baked goods.
Guide to 3 things to do in Boulogne on a short break
Visit the Old Town. Boulogne-sur-Mer’s Ville Haute is at the top of a hill, and about a 30 minute walk from Place Dalton. It’s a pretty steep climb, but worth it, because the Old Town is beautifully-restored mediaeval “village within a village”, complete with ramparts and towers and shops selling a variety of tourist tat. Check out the Basilica de Notre-Dame while you’re here- Visit Nausica’a and the beach. Nausica’a is Europe’s largest aquarium, and has the visitors to match (expect queues in summer, although you can book timed-entry queue-jump tickets on the Nausica’a website)
- Eat langostine in a factory carpark. Right in the middle of the tatty commercial fishing port in the carpark behind Findus, is Le Chatillon. This absolute gem of a seafood restaurant is packed with locals (so book before going) and it’s easy to see why. Staff are delightful, food is amazing, and it’s a great way to spend a couple of hours on a leisurely fishy lunch.